A SKYE IN FRANCE

I took my year old Skye Terrier, Sheila, to France with me in July  of 1999.  We were heading to Corsica to visit her brother, Macduff and his new mom, Christel. First of all, since Sheila has already flown to New York with me to visit them in February, she was adjusted to air travel. I added an additional training session so that when I put her in a bag (that she barely fit in) I could say to her  “go down in the bag Sheila” and she would flatten her little head so that I could zip it up. This really impressed all the airport officials at the check in points. I would have to take her out and let them scan the bag. I would then walk her through the detector and put her back in on the other side. As everyone watched and asked a multitude of questions about her breed and length and, of course, ears.  They would gasp in amazement when she would stuff her own little head and ears in the bag so I could zip her up. One woman in Atlanta exclaimed “I can’t believe that dog could fit those ears in that bag!”

The flight overseas was concerning me because of the extreme length – 7 hours over, and, due to delays, 9 hours back. Fortunately I was business class and had plenty of room for the both of us. On the way over I waited until after dinner was served to take her out of the bag and let her stretch out at my feet. This she did with much appreciation and a big sigh. She remained in that area at my feet the entire flight — never once making a sound or trying to get up on me. Incredible! Even when I would get up out of my seat (my biggest concern) I would look at her and say “stay” and when I returned — she had not moved.

All the stewardesses had to come over and talk to her and give her a pat. This was in spite of a sign I have on her bag that says “Happiness is NOT being touched by strangers.”. After the first few times, my anxiety lessened and I became convinced that she, unlike her Auntie Meg, would not growl or sink her teeth into these people, so it became amusing.

After landing in France, I couldn’t bear the thought of putting her in the bag and having to carry her around getting luggage and through customs, so I just walked her off the plane on a leash. Of course this was met with many a ”Oh how cute – Didn’t even know she was on board — and (my favorite) - Gosh, she was less trouble than those children in the back!”

At luggage claim, I walked up to a girl and asked if there was anyway my puppy could go outside to relieve herself before I went through customs, as I was afraid that walking her would result in her peeing in the airport.  The girl I walked up to turned out to be an American from Ohio (my favorite roller coaster place) so we immediately had a lot in common. She escorted me outside and let Sheila do her thing and brought me back in and helped through customs. Needless to say, they never even looked at Sheila or any of her papers that I spent time and money getting — we just waltzed right through.

Then – much to the surprise of both us — we were confronted with all these French people in the airport and their DOGS. Every other person seemed to have a pooch of some kind with them. It was great until Sheila decided to try put some of these inferior, frenchy mutts in their place !!!  I quickly got her outside and we climbed aboard a shuttle to our connecting airport. At this new airport were more doggies and some cats. In fact the last leg, which involved a smaller plane, was filled with people and their pets. We sat next to a man with two cats on his lap, but Sheila behaved herself and slept the whole time.

We were met in Figari, Corsica by Christel and Sheila’s brother “Macduff.” Sheila immediately attacked Macduff , who just kept wagging and wagging his tail. This form of greeting had been established on a prior visit to New York.  They obviously remembered each other and Sheila went to extremes to put Macduff  back into his place as “lessor doggy.” The next several days, Sheila would constantly smack Macduff if he got too friendly, but one could tell she was pleased with his attentions.

The last 5 days, they were inseparable and played constantly. It was like me and my shadows – Sheila followed me and Macduff followed Sheila. I was staying in a detached cottage with two beds and facilities 30 feet from  the main house. Stunningly beautiful views of the ocean.   It was wonderful and, of course, I was never scared with my two guard dogs.

The most amazing thing was the first time I had to leave to go to the store and couldn’t take Sheila. I was assured that she would be OK. You see, this place has no fence, just ocean and other homes around it. I left and said a prayer that my little doggy would not panic and try to come after me. When I returned a couple of hours later, I didn’t see her, and I did PANIC!

Running around and asking where is she?  The answer given by the three people who had stayed behind much too calmly and laughingly for my mood:

“She is on your bed — she won’t move — we have been down  there several times trying to get her to join us — but she just sits there.”Of course, loyal Macduff was with her on the floor.

This was the pattern for the rest of the visit. If I left the house, Sheila and Macduff would go to my room and wait for my return.  I imagine she felt safe there, kinda like her crate. We began to call it “The Love Nest”. Sometimes in the heat of the day, if the doggies were missing,  we would find them in there just having a chat or a quiet snooze.  Sheila in the middle of the bed; Macduff on the floor protecting her.  It was  very funny and charming. After I left, I was told that poor Macduff would keep checking the “Love Nest” just in case his sister had returned.

But this was only the beginning of Sheila’s adventures in Corsica. Suffice it to say that Sheila went to restaurants and sat under the table. She went into a grocery store and rode in the cart. She managed to walk on moving side walks, up and down escalators, up metal steps leading to an airplane, and on a beach with many people. I am proud and amazed. My little girl was wonderful.  She would be scared, but because of her love and trust in me, she would follow. The most incredible feat of courage was when we had to exit in Figari by the rear of the plane down open metal steps with the jet engines still making that awful noise. She hesitated and looked scared and I said “come on girl we are almost here.” She just looked at me and came down those open steps with all that horrid noise. It was very touching.

I didn’t force her into the water.  I didn’t want to deal with the mess, so whenever I swam she sat on the crowded beach with her eyes never leaving me. No matter where I went in the water, I could look back and see that face staring at me. This, of course, is why she was picked out of the litter. Whenever I would look out at my 9 puppies out my window, Sheila seemed to know I was looking at them and snap her little head around and stare at me. In a way, she picked me.

The only really embarrassing moment came when we were met at the airport in Paris by my new friend Christiane, an elegant woman, and her 10 year old Cairn Terrier, Ducks. He is named this because of his love for the water. Sheila had been with Ducks on Corsica, and had played with him. Well, Ducks rushed up to Sheila at the airport to say “Welcome to Paris” and was greeted with a nip on the nose!  After a thousand “I am so sorry” from me and making sure wee Ducks would survive, all Christiane said, in her wonderfully understated way, was “Your Skye has the most extraordinary personality.”

Shortly thereafter we had to leave the two dogs in the car for a moment. As we walked off, I said a prayer that Sheila wouldn’t do more harm to this tiny Cairn. When we returned they were both in the back seat like the best of friends and Christiane looked at Sheila and simply repeated ”extraordinary personality.” We spent the rest of the day in Paris where Ducks and Sheila ran around parks and acted like old chums. We saw the Eiffel Tower and Arch de Triumph and ate in fabulous restaurants and visited private homes. Sheila made many friends and amazed some of mine with her “American devil may care, until you get in my face attitude.”

Traveling is wonderful.  Traveling with your dog is better.